Writing this three and a half years after my visit, I still look back on my time in Salento as though it was recently. It’s probably the most picturesque town I’ve ever visited and I have the privilege to go back in a few months! Salento feels like it was pulled straight from a storybook, which describes it perfectly as it’s where Disney’s ‘Encanto’ is set. Every house and business is painted in bold, joyful colours, with friendly dogs roaming the cobblestone streets and tiny artisan shops tucked into every corner. The town square is where everything comes together; a classic Colombian church, street food stalls serving grilled arepas and trachea (grilled trout), kids playing and locals chatting. It felt safe, friendly, and buzzing with life.
THE HOSTEL
Everywhere you look, there’s green—trees, mountains, valleys. It’s the kind of place that makes you want to put your phone away and just wander. Whether you’re hiking, climbing to viewpoints, or simply strolling the streets with a coffee in hand, there’s always something beautiful to look at. After all the partying in Cali, Colombia, I was ready for some chill time. I stayed at Viajero Hostel—part of a popular chain spread across Latin America. I’d had an amazing time at their location in Cali, so I assumed the one in Salento would be a similar vibe. It wasn’t, there wasn’t really a social area and staff seemed uninterested. When I go again I will simply show up in the town and stay in one of the many more lowkey hostels which are about £5 a night. Luckily I met up with some friends who I had met in Bogota and Cali. I even bumped into a girl I had randomly seen in four different countries, and to honour that she gave me a bunkbed tattoo. It doesn’t get more backpacker-core than that.
ALTITITUDE SICKNESS
If you’re heading to Salento, you’ll quickly learn that the town square is the place where everything happens. Being in the heart of Colombia’s coffee region, you’ll find everything from coffee farm visits to bus rides out to the Cocora Valley, home to the tallest palm trees in the world. What I didn’t expect was the altitude sickness. I’ve hiked volcanoes and mountains well over 3,000 meters above sea level. I felt fine in Bogotá which sits at around 2,640 meters, so naturally, I assumed Salento—at about 1,900 meters—wouldn’t be a problem. But after a winding bus ride into town, I realised something was off. I felt drained, dizzy, nauseous. I couldn’t even fully appreciate the beauty of the place until I rested as much as I could. But of course I couldn’t miss Cocora Valley. The day before the hike, I bought coca leaves—a natural remedy often used in the Andes for altitude sickness. You can chew them or make them into tea, after two full days of feeling rough, my body finally started to adjust.
COCORA VALLEY
Cocora Valley holds a beautiful hike around the worlds tallest palm trees, the main reason people visit Salento. In the main square —which honestly looks like it was designed by whoever made Sylvanian Families toys—there’s a small ticket booth where you can catch a jeep out to Cocora Valley. It’s the central hub for planning activities, and if you’re traveling solo, it’s also a great place to meet people. That’s one of the things I absolutely love about travelling—there’s always someone around to support you, share snacks with, or encourage you up the next muddy hill. I noticed this kind of easy connection happened more often in Colombia and Mexico than in Central America. Maybe it’s because both countries are big and follow a well-trodden backpacker route, but I found it especially easy to make genuine, lasting friendships here. Cocora Valley itself is hard to describe how surreal it feels to stand among towering palms, some reaching up to 60 meters high, surrounded by clouds and green mountains. It’s peaceful, otherworldly, and one of the most unique landscapes I’ve ever seen.
TEJO
Some friends and I went to play Tejo after, Colombias national sport. You throw a heavy metal puck (the tejo) toward a kind of bowling alley. At the end are balls of clay with gunpowder inside of them. When your tejo hits them just right it explodes. Its a great game to play within Colombia and everyone enjoys themselves.
THE COFFEE REGION
I didn’t want my time in this part of the world to end, so I booked a coffee tour—partly out of curiosity, and partly as an excuse to stay just a little bit longer. Salento sits in the heart of Colombia’s coffee triangle, the “Eje Cafetero”. There are loads of farms just outside town offering tours, mine was laid back and personal. Our guide walked us through the entire coffee-making process—from planting and harvesting to drying, roasting, and brewing. What really struck me was how hands-on and labor-intensive it all is. You don’t realise how much work goes into a single cup until you see it up close.
MIRADORS
Almost every street in Salento leads to beautiful miradors. I walked to two, they are just a short steep walk up some stairs, then at the top there are small vendors and jewellery sellers, looking out into the mountains and colourful views. Because the town is so small, its easy to navigate the viewpoints, just look up to the surrounding mountains and you will find a trail.
All in all, Colombia holds a special place in my heart, especially Salerno and I can’t wait to come back in a few months on my next South America trip that starts in only two weeks!
Salento Tips
Don’t over plan – Salento is perfect for slow travel—wondering, journalling, and just soaking in the mountain air.
With accommodation, shop around – There are plenty of cozy, budget-friendly options.
Cocora Valley is a must. It’s an absolute non-negotiable when you visit.
Prepare to stay longer than you thought. It’s that kind of place.
Bevs Backpacking📍 
Leave a comment